Sicily & The Aeolian Islands: Stromboli by day

Stromboli is an amazing place. The main settlement is in the North East of the island that is shaped by two narrow 'roads', one along the coast and another at a higher level. These form a one way system for the three wheeled carts, golf buggies and scooters that pass for traffic here. The local police have a golf buggy with a blue light on the top. There are no pavements, but pedestrians and vehicles seem to get along just fine.

We had a warm but hazy day for our walk to see Sciarra del Fuoco - formed by lava flow. The start of the walk repeated the stiff initial climb from the previous evening, and then contoured around a well-made path at around 1000'. This was very colourful, with a the pink of cistus and yellow of broom all the way. We eventually reached the mule track built by Visconti when filming on the islands, and soon got our view of the lava flow. This apparently glows at night, but all we could see was steam as it entered the sea. We climbed the  narrow track to the makeshift helipad to get a better view and were treated to a few eruptions from above while there. Quite a backdrop for our picnic lunch. The dark grey plumes were presumably there the previous night when we'd been at the top!

We descended the mule track to the aptly-named L'Osservatorio restaurant, where we had a drink in the sunshine and watched more eruptions, then made our way back via the coastal path and the residential streets, stopping for a delicious ice cream on the way.

Dinner was pizzas all round outdoors at Ritrovo Ingrid on the main square. It was Eurovision time, and we amused ourselves by trying to remember the UK entries from the 1970s. 

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Sicily & The Aeolian Islands: Sunset on Stromboli

Our three day stay on Lipari ended, and we took a 2 hour hydrofoil (but less bumpy) ride to Stromboli, via a few other lovely-looking islands.

We were staying at Hotel Ossidiana - a hundred yards or so from the jetty and just across a narrow 'road' from the beach of black sand. Stromboli is another volcanic island - this time with two villages (that can only be reached by sea). The  self-guided walk to a viewpoint was scheduled for the next day. We were advised that a guided walk to the reach the 3000' summit at sunset was available - but that it was only suitable for people 'in the peak of fitness'. We declared ourselves as suitably qualified, signed up for a 5pm start and had a very nice lunch in Ritrovo Ingrid, named after Ingrid Bergman, who made a film and had an affair with Rossellini here.

There was one guide (Antonio) and around 15 walkers. The climb was very steep in places, but Antonio set a steady pace that we could just about keep up with.  Apparently, a couple of French women has been sent back the previous day for being unable to keep up.

It got misty as we got higher, and we could hear the rumbles from the crater. What's more, clouds of volcanic dust rained down on us. We were still in cloud (and a cold wind) when we reached the lower summit and donned our crash helmets and any other clothes we'd brought. However, the cloud lifted as we crossed the ridge to the edge of the crater and we could see that we'd climbed through a lower level of cloud. There were minor eruptions in the crater every 20 minutes or so, sending up plumes of smoke and a spit of lava in the crater. Views were incredible as the sun went down. It really would have  been such  a shame to have come to this island and not done this walk.

The first part of the descent was steep and sandy (top left in the 3D picture below). Antonio demonstrated the correct technique - lean back, put one heel down quite hard and let it slide, repeat with other leg.  Once you got the hang of it, it was quick and easy, but very hard work. It was certainly a fast way down. After that excitement, it was really quite dark, so we put our head torches on for the rocky stretch.

We were all tired but still a bit excited when we got back to the village. Clearly a drink was in order. Thanks to Alex for sharing his pizza.

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