Glacier National Park: Swiftcurrent Lake, with a moose and her calf

I was still incapacitated the next day. After some debate, I decided not to make the 176 mile round trip to the doctors, but to skip the programmed walk to see if it improved. Rosie decided to stay with me, at least in part to have a rest after two tough days.

We had a late-ish breakfast and caught up on some email, which was not a quick exercise using the wet string internet connection. The gift shop needed to be explored too, and soon the morning was gone. We had a light lunch, and a couple of medicinal beers in my case, in the hotel bar. By the time this was done, the sun was shining brightly so we decided to take the short walk from the hotel around Swiftcurrent Lake.

Almost as soon as we left the hotel, we came across a group of Big Horn Sheep seemingly putting on a show for the hikers.

We were surrounded by fantastic mountain views that demanded to be photographed, and also got glimpses of the hotel across the lake. It really is very large - no wonder it took a us long time to get to our room.

Being so close to the hotel, this was a popular and well-trodden path. However, there were 'beware of the bears' notices as we entered a wooded section. We didn't meet one that day, but as we approached a bridge over a wide stream, we could see a small crowd with cameras had gathered so it was clear that some wildlife was around. We were delighted to see a female moose cooling down in the stream. After a while, a calf emerged for a paddle. Cue even more photos.

At one point, we reached another bridge, with a queue at both ends because a family was posed in the middle, and the father was setting up his tripod in the middle of the stunning view, pointing at the bridge. He eventually stood with his family, used his remote control and then , very quickly, went back to his tripod and fiddled around - in the middle of the view that everyone else wanted to photograph. Hmmm. Still, there were plenty of other views.

We met the others in the bar, and then played the 'avoid sitting at the same table as Sheila' game. At this point, we only thought the younger contingent was aware of the issue and therefore playing this game. How wrong we were. More of this later.

Apparently, our guides had a fixed allowance for the 'keep' while with us. Understandably, they minimised their expenditure by camping nearby and eating simply. As a group, we decided to treat them to dinner on this last night at Glacier.  Over dinner, we heard how good the harder walk to Iceberg Lake was that day. The highlight was Clay's dive into said icy lake.

I was feeling more comfortable by bedtime and was confident that I could do one of the programmed walks the next day.

Glacier National Park: over the Piegan Pass to Many Glacier Hotel, with some obstacles

We checked out of the Lake McDonald Lodge and would be staying on the Eastern side of the park for a few days. Even through it was 13 miles, there was no doubt that we'd choose the harder walk once we learned that it would cross the Continental Divide and take us on foot to the next hotel - the Many Glacier Hotel.

Once again, we drove along the Going to the Sun Road and gained a lot of height. I suggested that we needed a butch guide (who would save us from the bears) to pose in front of the Piegan Pass sign. Clay took my feed line and asked whether he would do instead.

The path gained height gradually through a mixture of woodland and lovely flower meadows, crossing a few fast flowing streams. We had a little rain, but it only lasted long enough for us to put our waterproofs on before stopping. We also came across a mule deer.

Just as we could see the open mountainside ahead, we passed through a final meadow. This was the best of all, with a profusion of gentians and plenty of other colour. We could see the pass in the clouds in the distance, with the path going diagonally across the mountain, requiring us to cross a couple of patches of snow.

 

This was quite a long stretch and, although not steep, we were at 7,600'. By the time we got to the Continental Divide at Piegan Pass, Rosie was feeling a little queasy. This was the planned lunch stop, so it was a good chance for Rosie to rest. And what a place - glorious flowers, massive  mountain vistas, and a clear sky. There was even a humming bird. Perfect.

We duly went Across the Great Divide and started to descend. We could soon see a large waterfall, and the path gradually zigzagged its way close to, and then past, it. The path followed the growing stream into a wood.

By this time, I was feeling uncomfortable in a way that I won't expand upon, and Rosie was tired.

After a few stream crossings on crude bridges, we came across our first hikers coming in the other direction who told us that we would need to wade across the stream. Apparently, the stream had rerouted itself. When we got there, it was clear that we'd need to remove boots and socks, roll up our trousers and go for it. Rosie was in the first batch across and, from the expletives I could hear from her direction , the water was obviously very cold. I was one of the last across, and found the sharpness of the stones on the stream bed more of an issue than the cold.

After that excitement, we had a long walk in the woods alongside a couple of lakes (that we couldn't see).  Rosie's left knee was hurting by this time, and my gait was becoming 'interesting'. However, Swiftwater Lake and the Many Glacier Hotel came into view, then gradually more and more of the surrounding mountains. Wow - what a situation.

When we got to the hotel. Rosie immediately laid down on a bench. Despite being 'inconvenienced', it was clearly my job to get the room key so I climbed the steep stairs to reception and was given the key. But there was great confusion about the location of the luggage, so we trailed around the ground floor trying to locate either the luggage or the buses. I got fed up with this and took the long walk to our room in the annexe on the second floor. I then dumped my rucksack and other stuff and went back to the front of the hotel to find Rosie. She wasn't there, and I wasn't impressed. We eventually found each other and the luggage in reception. We just had time for a shower before a late dinner.

Dinner itself was interesting.... Luckily, I managed to get a decent IPA before it. The menu was similar to Lake McDonald, and looked promising so we duly ordered. After a while, the started (soup or salad as usual) arrived. A couple of minutes (honestly), the mains arrived and were placed on stands behind us ("our kitchen is very quick"). We asked for them to be kept warm while we had our starters. By the time they got to us, they were either rubbery or cold. A lot of food was returned uneaten that night.

However, no hotel or dinner hassles could have detracted from the joys of this walk, which was one of the best we've ever done - the stream crossing even added to the adventure.


View Piegan Pass in a larger map