Saturday 8 September 2012

Happisburgh - a birthday adventure and a visit to Holkham

On a previous week in Norfolk, we'd stayed on the river at Wayford Bridge and had the use of a rowing boat. This didn't have proper rowlocks (in fact, they were bowlocks) so our progress was erratic and somewhat comical. However, Rosie and I liked the fact that, at least in theory, we were able to explore waterways that were not reachable by powered boats.

It was my birthday on Thursday, so I got to choose what we did, and  decided that we should hire an indian-style canoe from Wayford Bridge. Rosie's somewhat nervous on boats, but went along with the idea. The assistant  advised us to go under the bridge and  up the North Walsham and Dilham Canal, which is beyond the limit of navigation for powered boats. 

We'd never done this before, but seemed to get the hang of it quite quickly and made good progress. Within ten minutes of setting off, I had three Kingfisher sightings (at this time, Rosie was simply willing the canoe not to sink). The canal was shallow, quite narrow and overgrown, but the water was very clean. To use a tired cliché, we really did feel 'close to nature'.

When we'd been going about an hour, we got rather closer than I cared to... we came across a herd of cows on the bank, one of which decided it needed at bathe in the canal, so it waded in just ahead of us. We'd had trouble with cows here last year on a walk with Dave. The canal was wide enough for us to manoeuvre past (with me willing the cow to still still). Shortly afterwards, we beached the canoe on the far bank from the cows and had a rest. After checking that the canal was cow-free, we paddled back. This was against the wind, and it was much harder work to steer the canoe.

Apart from a group with solo kayaks (although one had a dog as a passenger), we'd had the canal to ourselves. However, as we got close to the boathouse, we came across two older couples in canoes. They clearly had not got the hang of it. They seemed to still be at the 'having fun at being hopeless' stage. I hope it stayed fun for them.

We both enjoyed the adventure and would do it again.

It was a lovely sunny day, so naturally we needed to visit the beach for Rosie's daily dip in the North Sea. This time we took advantage of Jo and Pete's offer to park at Sandways, their cottage near Eccles, and use the gap over the dunes there. Apart from a few surfers who weren't having a very fulfilling time, there was hardly anyone around.

Jo and Pete had also invited us for dinner in Wreningham. Thanks to Pete for cooking the  barbecued leg of lamb that I love. Thanks also to Jo for the 'compiliation' CD of walking and rambling songs.

We decided to venture further afield on Friday, and headed for Holkham. We started with a walk around in the Holker Hall estate. This was pleasant enough but, truth be told, a bit boring. It was well timed, because we ended up back at the cafeteria for a late lunch. There was a great choice of savoury pies and the like from Walsingham Farms Shops. We chose and enjoyed a pasty each, and decided to visit the Farm Shop on the way back to our cottage to stock up on some treats.

Guess what we did next? Off to the beach at Holkham of course. This is an amazing place - with pines, salt marches, dunes and then a massive extent of beach. The tide goes out a very long way here, so it's quite a walk to the sea. We spent a super (and hot) couple of hours there, with the statutory dip.

The farm shop was even better than we'd hoped, so more tempting. I'm writing this on Saturday evening after having eaten the chicken and ham pie we bought there. It was exactly what a good pie should be - rich pastry, full to bursting with filling and with a lovely tarragon flavoured sauce. Looking forward to the pork pie tomorrow.

After leaving the cottage this morning, we took a final trip to the beach at Sandways for a final dip to complete Rosie's 'in the sea every day' quest.

Back to work on Monday, but not for long because we're off to Santorini the week after next!

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