Tuesday 25 September 2012

On Santorini: Perivolos to Ancient Thira

As we've done for the past few years, we're taking an early-Autumn holiday in the sun. After getting rained on last year in Turkey in October, we've come earlier this year to Santorini. It a lovely small island, with plenty to see. The weather has been hot with a gentle warm breeze - perfect for relaxation on the beach or by the pool.

We've taken an organised trip to the recently reopened archaeological site at Akrotiri, and a cruise around the caldera, including a stop to climb the active volcano (that makes four this year)  on Nea Kameni and another  to swim in the hot volcanic springs on  on Palea Kameni. We also took the local buses to the lovely Oia.

However, there's a limited amount of lazing around I can do and still get to sleep at night, so a more energetic outing was required. By chance, our resort is at Pervilos, quite close to the site of Ancient Thira - the Dorian capital of the island. The city was built to be easily defended, not easily visited. It's on top of the large hill on the coast that divides Perissa from Kamari. We're just down the coast from Perissa, but there's no road up from this side. However, a footpath was marked on the map, so we decided to try it and made an early (for holidays) start. 

After a twenty minute walk to and though Perissa, we found the path easily. It  zigzagged up the steep slope nicely. The way was clear to follow, and not too tough underfoot. The latter was important as I had only brought sandals and a newish pair of shoes, so was wearing my Merrell 'hiking sandals' and no socks. This turned out to be just fine. It took us about half an hour (mostly in the shade) to get to the 'col', where there's a narrow road down to Kamari, with just a few parking places. No wonder none of the organised coach tours go there.

We paid our €2 entry fees, and climbed some more towards the site, which runs along the ridge of the headland. Although we'd been spoiled by Akrotiri, this was a spectacular site, with some carvings still in place and the layout of plenty of buildings still evident. There were also half a dozen little cabins that, in most Greek historic sites, contain officials with whistles. They use the whistles if you stray off the defined walkways. Only one of these was staffed here - maybe it's late in the season, or maybe this is austerity in action. 

We returned to the road by the path we'd ascended and then took a different route back to Perivolos hoping but failing to find somewhere to buy a big bag of pistachio nuts - a local speciality and favourites of ours. Instead we found a bar specialising in ice cream and duly over-induldged.

So with culture and exercise done, we returned to lounge around the pool in the sunshine.

View Ancient Thira in a larger map

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